tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20129771811398858952024-03-13T00:05:05.567+01:00CARKEL MINI PAINTINGAbout painting tiny stuff. Carkelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03041033786524674742noreply@blogger.comBlogger49125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012977181139885895.post-47930591309928085702018-09-18T13:18:00.001+02:002018-09-18T13:18:55.964+02:00[ACHERON ARMY - WINTER IS COMING] LE GRAND CRANE - The swordFor the sword, the idea was to paint a demonic ice blade.<br />I've started with a wet blending of azure, blue, purple and black. Then I've highlighted the details with pure white to create the illusion of ice.<br />I've finished the job with a gloss varnish to increase the effect.<br />The handle has been painted with the same colour I've used for the other bones parts.<br />
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<br />Carkelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03041033786524674742noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012977181139885895.post-2383959303105034202018-01-25T14:16:00.000+01:002018-01-25T14:16:44.171+01:00[ACHERON ARMY - WINTER IS COMING] LE GRAND CRANE - The machete<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Some progress with my Grand Crane. I've painted the legs and the hoofs. Nothing special with that step, I've simply followed the same color scheme than the clothes under the armor.<br />The machete instead was more complicated. I was very hesitant about how to paint it. Then looking for some background, I've discovered that this blade was actually a big sharpe of ancient demon's teeth. So I've gone toward a old looking bone scheme.<br />I've first painted the foundation in wet blending mixing pale skin, ocre, white, sky blue and a touch of green. Then I've applied several layer of ink and washes mainly dark sepia, stone wash, blue and green.<br />Once dried, I've used drybrush with white in order to create some textures on the blade.<br />Last touch: some 3d effects to add some scratches and battle damages. </div>
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<br />Carkelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03041033786524674742noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012977181139885895.post-15169257512966465802017-10-25T09:10:00.000+02:002017-10-26T08:49:39.502+02:00[ACHERON ARMY - WINTER IS COMING] LE GRAND CRANE - The horns<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
After a little bit of anger for my "non painting" situation, I've been lucky yesterday evening as my kids have decided to go to bed early. (Finally!!!)</div>
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So I've catched the opportunity to go ahead with my Grand Crane. Just a short session but enough to complete the huge horns of my skull warrior.</div>
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The base color was already painted. I used a yellow ocre + a touch of blue wet blended with pure black.</div>
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Mainly I've worked the light and shadow, defining again the volume. For the color recipe I've semply used the base color with black and white to desaturate the overall color. The base color was a little bit too yellow, not in line with the rest of the miniature and because I wanted to make the horns old and worn, it was important to not let the colors too satutared.</div>
I've also painted some dammages just to add a little bit of texture because the horns were a little bit too flat for my taste.<br />
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Next step: finish the legs and the hoofs.</div>
<br />Carkelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03041033786524674742noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012977181139885895.post-55869810709622781772017-10-24T12:22:00.000+02:002017-10-24T12:22:02.898+02:00[DISNEY INFINITY MV CHALLENGE] GAME OVER<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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And it is a failure...<br />
Unfortunatly the due date of the Massive Voodoo challenge was for October the 19th and I was not able to conclude it in time.<br />
To be absolutly honest, I don't even have the time to put my pencil on.<br />
It's the problem when you're a hobbyst with a full time job and a two small kids at home, you never have the guarantee to find free time for yourself.<br />I'm quite upset with that also because all my painting projects are stopped since 2 months.<br />In fact, I was also confident to finish my Rackham Grand Crane before November the 1st for the <a href="http://figurementors.com/artquest17" target="_blank">FigureMentors' Art Quest 2017</a> but at this point, It will be impossible to do it in time.<br />
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Hard time for dad painters...<br />
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<br />Carkelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03041033786524674742noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012977181139885895.post-22809393774630904132017-09-07T12:41:00.000+02:002017-10-26T08:50:16.432+02:00[ACHERON ARMY- WINTER IS COMING] LE GRAND CRANE- finishing the metalsAfter finishing my steel metal, I've decided to add some details to make my undead warrior more realistic. So I've painted some battle damage on the armor. The effect is very simple to do and it's a cool added value to the overall result.<br />
Paint your damage in black and underline the reflection of the light in silver on the lower part of the damage. And you have a 3D effect on your flat surface. Quick and simple.<br />
I've also created a little bit of weathering just to make the armor even more broken looking. I've painted the rust with orange brown focusing the effect on the deep spot (including the fake battle damage).<br />
I've decided to go very easy with the rust because I want to keep my color hue the most colder as possible which is quite incompatible with the orange of the rust. <br />
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Enough with the steel metal, it's time to proceed with the golden part of the armor.<br />
Following the same principle than the other color of the mini, I've choosen a cold color for my gold. So pale gold (warcolour) with a drop of black to desature it and a drop of blue to make it colder.<br />
The result is a fondation of pale greenish gold.<br />
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Then I've worked the shades with a first washe of Dark Sepia (secret weapon) and a second wash for the extreme shades of Dark Sepia + Black ink (warcolour) then finished the shading process with a glaze of purple ink (warcolour) always for the extreme shades.<br />
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For the highlights, I've come back first on the light zone with my fondation of pale gold and then increase the light adding silver (warcolour) to the mix until reach pure silver for the extreme lights.<br />
Then some glazes of green ink (warcolour) in the mid light area and finally some touches of turquoise on the deeper textured area to create some verd-de-gris.<br />
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That's all for today. Next step: the horns.<br />
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<br />Carkelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03041033786524674742noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012977181139885895.post-69744737225381722352017-08-28T09:45:00.001+02:002017-10-26T08:50:04.772+02:00[ACHERON ARMY - WINTER IS COMING] LE GRAND CRANE - let's play with metal.A little bit of advancement with my Almighty Skull.<br />
I've decided to work with true metal for the armor parts. I've tried to follow the good tips of Ben Komets on his TMM tutorial.<br />
The most difficult part with true metal is to make it interesting in term of color and not only "metal looking". By the way, mixing pure color to the metal recipe and applying inks you can reach interesting results.<br />
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Unfortunatly, my pics are not good enough to catch the color reflections but at least you have an idea of the overall results.</div>
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It still in progress because I've planned to paint some damages and weathering to make the skull warrior more credible. </div>
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So about the method:<br />
Surface: pure black<br />
The base color has been painted in wet blending mixing Steel (with a touch of blue), black metal and silver following light and shadows of course.<br />
The shades has been increased first with washes of black metal + pure black and then with washes of Black armor (secret weapon).<br />
The higlights has been increased with pure silver I've added to the blue steel I've used for the base color.</div>
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For the color variation, I've used very diluted glazes of dark brown ink in the mid shades and blue ink for the mid lights.<br />
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Next step: damages and weathering on steel part. If I 've found enough time maybe I will work also on the golden parts. </div>
Carkelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03041033786524674742noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012977181139885895.post-61869294888706282812017-08-22T10:33:00.003+02:002017-10-26T08:50:49.875+02:00[ZOMBICIDE] undead in the mistI'm having some logistic problem in this period due to some maintenance I'm doing at home. So it's quite complicated to find time and space for my hobby.<br />
As I cannot paint, I play.<br />
This week-end we tried a new Zombicide mission of the saison 1. It was the opportunity to put my painted mini on the table. <br />
Meanwhile I was shooting some pics, the smoke of my friend's electric sigarette had covered the gameboard.<br />
I just wanted to share with you the special effect.<br />
Nothing it's more satisfactory than a game with yours painted miniatures.<br />
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Carkelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03041033786524674742noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012977181139885895.post-26378840844388828302017-08-02T15:52:00.000+02:002017-08-02T15:52:28.114+02:00[DISNEY INFINITY MV CHALLENGE] Repainting MERIDA<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Massive Voodoo has launched the <a href="http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.it/2017/07/mv-challenge-2017.html" target="_blank">MV Challenge 2017</a>.<br />
It's the opportunity for me to partecipate to an other painting contest. I have realized than painting with rules and deadline is a very good way to improve and if the theme of the contest is fun, it's even better.<br />
This year Massive Voodoo proposes two contests:<br />
_ Base with water where you have to build a water-themed based alone.<br />
_ Walt Disney Infinity where you must repaint a Disney Infinity figure.
I've choosen to repaint one of this Disney figure. There is a lot of choice in the Infinity range with Pixar, Star War, Marvel and other film of the brand.<br />
At the end I've decided to repaint Merida from the Pixar's Brave. She's a cool character and the difference between the infinity design and the original is also an opportunity to play with the treatment of the different elements as MV let complete freedom in term of creativity.<br />
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The deadline is on October the 19th, I suppose it let me enough time to create also a nice base for my princess and maybe do some small conversions. </div>
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Carkelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03041033786524674742noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012977181139885895.post-64751510338644534202017-07-26T14:01:00.000+02:002017-10-26T08:50:31.603+02:00[ACHERON ARMY - WINTER IS COMING] LE GRAND CRANE pt 1After a break away from my pencils, I've finally come back and decided to start painting my Rackham Acheron undead army. Inspired by the new Game of Thrones season, I've choosen to paint my army in a frozen atmosphere. It's also an opportunity for me to try new techniques as I've never created winter and snow base.<br />
Flying on the wave of motivation, I've decided to kick off with the biggest piece of the undead serie: Le Grand Crane ( the Almighty Skull) . It's not only the biggest in term of army point as he's a "living legend" which is, in Confrontation game, the most powerful unit of the army but it also in literary the biggest miniature. <br />
The guy is a massive skull warrior, the skeleton I put on the base give you an idea of the scale. Considering he's a metal miniature, that's also mean he's very heavy. In fact I've struggle a lot to put together and consolidate the different pieces and the base. <br />
The wooden pike I've placed on the base are not only for aesthetic purpose but to maintain the cork under the weight of the mini. <br />
In term of painting, Le Grand Crane is going to be challenging. Not only because he's large but due to the profusion of elements in the sculpture, each of them heavily textured.<br />
Fortunatly the most confusing part of the sculpture is on his back which will be mostly hidden by the huge cloak (which will be itself a challenge in the challenge).<br />
After a black and white priming, I've started to paint to face and the skin parts. Because the colours hue will be mainly cold, I've tried to put some magic effect on his eyes with flashy orange just to create a contrasting focus on his face.<br />
I think it's too soon to understand if the idea is good... <br />
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<br />Carkelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03041033786524674742noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012977181139885895.post-5571947986530326522017-05-18T15:45:00.001+02:002017-05-18T15:45:13.444+02:00GANGEEK STYLE PAINTING CONTEST 2 - AND THE WINNER IS...<br />
GangeekStyle has published <a href="http://gangeekstyle.com/2017/05/resultat-du-ggs-painting-2/" target="_blank">the result of the contest</a>.<br />
I invite you to visit the site and check all the entries, there was a lot of interesting stuff.<br />
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On my side, I've placed 6th with my diorama, with the following comments from the judges:<br />
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Rintrah: Technically, there is a lot of improvement to do on different aspects (specially the bricks of the wall) but there is a real work on the composition, the light and the environment. A pretty nice scene!</div>
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Slave of paint : Nice environment but technically it is not so good. The diorama would work better with a smaller base.</div>
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Stéphane Nguyen : A classic diorama staging very realistic and archetypal characters. It's a bold choice to present monochromatic zombies. Negative aspect: the technic used for the bricks on the wall is perfectable.</div>
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Rémy Tremblay thinks that Carkel is the only competitor who's matched the thematic. He's loved his job and think that the processing of the scene is original and cool.</div>
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Ivankaiser : The direction is perfect. We can identify the good, the brute and the mad. The choice to paint the zombies in monochromatic hue helps to indentify the main characters. Pity to have missed the the sculpture of the bricks wall, it seems cardboard. I think that the characters should deserve some extra highlights.</div>
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First of all, It's fantastic to have feed back from this judges. We are talking about very skilled painters and sculptors, <br />I'm very satisfied that my choice of direction has been recognized considering the brainstorming behind and the time I've dedicated to the scene. Technically, I'm aware of my limits so I'm not very surprised, it's clearly an aspect I need to improve. Probably I will have to change also my materials for the building of the scene.<br />
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Finally, Remy Tremblay's comment is so rewarding! I love his work, and of course considering I've painted the mini he's created for Zombicide, I was a little bit anxious knowing he was part of the judges.<br />
So happy my scene has pleased you Remy.<br /><br />
and now? <br />I have different project in mind:<br />
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<br />A Rackham Confrontation undead army. I've always dreamed to paint a complete army even if I will probably never play with. I have a nice collection of Acheron undead at home waiting to be painted, I would like to use them for this project. (also because I love the way Rackham did the undead) <br />
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A Fantasy diorama in historical style. I have a box of major state templar from Rackham, I'me quite inspired my some documentary about templar and cruisader and i would like to paint them in some realistic scheme.<br />
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Kingdom Death Monster. I've pledged for the version 1.5 and very anxious to received my box. Can't wait to put my pencils on this mini!<br /><br />In the short time, I think I'm going to relax mysef with some tabletop painting for zombicide. There is some survivors from Hasselfree waiting to be painted. Pulp time.<br />
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<br />Carkelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03041033786524674742noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012977181139885895.post-64588110250205015012017-05-02T17:05:00.001+02:002017-05-02T17:05:59.413+02:00[GGS CONTEST 2] The final result<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
And so, after 6 months of paintjob, I've finally finished my diorama Zed Is Dead for the Gangeekstyle contest.</div>
It's the most elaborate and complete work I've ever done, and I'm quite sure that it would never finish such a big project without a contest to motivate myself.<br />
I'm very satisfied with the result, it's exactly what I had in mind when I've started it 6 months ago. Of course, some details are not perfect, the ground and the shadows would be more neat. There is also some mistake on the characters painting.<br />
I'm very curious and anxious to read the opinion of the judges.<br />
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Now, enjoy. <br />
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<br />Carkelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03041033786524674742noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012977181139885895.post-80209017414886290952017-04-05T13:24:00.000+02:002017-04-05T13:24:03.337+02:00[GGS CONTEST 2] Painting the survivors - Leonard the brute.The due date for the GGS contest 2 is very near. I've just finished to paint the second character of my trio: Leonard the brute.<br />
I've taken inspiration of Marcellus Wallace from Pulp Fiction, so the idea is to paint an afro american drug dealer with suspicious taste for clothes.<br />For the painting of the skin, I've worked with a base of chocolate, shaded with addiction of black and highlighted with cream. <br />
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For the clothes I've chosen a mix of orange and blue (it's the idea of the complementary color for each character, the last one will be paint with Purple + yellow).<br />The base of the suit has been based with a blue grey and washed with blue. Then I've added the stripes with pure blue and finally work the shades and the light. </div>
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The brute done.</div>
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the next and final one will be the good. </div>
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3 weeks remained to the end of contest. </div>
<br />Carkelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03041033786524674742noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012977181139885895.post-18048070272153605932017-02-20T10:37:00.002+01:002017-02-20T10:37:15.494+01:00[GGS CONTEST 2] Painting the survivors - Frank the nut.<br />
I have less than three months to finish my diorama for the contest, it's time to paint the three heroes.<br />
For them, I've decided to use an opposite method than for the zombies. The idea is to paint them with very saturated colors, choosing a limited palette and limiting the use of white and black. <br />To create cohesion, I'm going to select 2 main colors for each of them playing with the chromatic circle. <br />I've started with Franck, the mad of the group. I really like the sculpture. He's very original and fun to paint. The colors selected are Green and red (complementary colors).<br />As I wanted to make him look scruffy, I've get inspiration to Kurt Kobain because I was listening Nirvana when I've started to paint him and though that the grunge style should suit him very well.<br />I've spent a lot of time on the face to increase as most as possible his expression using glazes of red and blue to create contrast.<br />Instead the painting of the hairs was most complicated than I though,<br />
Blonde hair has not so complicated, the secret is: Not use yellow! <br />Instead it's trickier to keep a balance between natural light reflection and "Loreal" super shiny effect which is very nice for a good looking female character less for a grunge style dude. <br />
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For the shirt, I've choosen the red green stripped pattern used by Kobain. It's the same than Freddy Krugger's which is perfect to give a little bit of insanity to the mini. He's the nut of the group right?<br />The blue jean has been paint with the same method I used for my zombicide survivor. It's a base a blue grey with shades of dark grey and drybrush of white to create the texture of wear. A touch of glazes of orange brown to make it dirtier and it's done. </div>
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For the jerkin, I've painted it like a german military parka. Actually it's not correct because I could not afford to find the right colors and instead painted it with in olive with glazes of blue to correct as most as possible the final hue.<br />As for the jean, I've used drybrush of yellowish olive to create wear textures even if it's not very visible on the pics.<br />The beer can has been painted in metalic with a little pattern inspirated on Budweiser in red and white just to give the idea. </div>
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I finalyse the painting with a layer of matt varnish only on the clothes to fuse the colors and increase the contrast with the face.<br />Franck was fun to paint and I'm very satisfied with the result.<br />The next hero will be Leonard, the "well-suited brute".<br /></div>
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<br />Carkelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03041033786524674742noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012977181139885895.post-52491988586922844062017-01-02T15:52:00.000+01:002017-01-13T22:34:30.331+01:00[GGS CONTEST 2] Painting the zombies<br />
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Even if I've already painted hundred of this zombie from Zombicide, I admit I'm really enjoying this phase of my diorama because actually it's the first time I'm really painting them. I mean, this time it's not a matter of speed and mass painting, it's finest miniature painting and I have to say this zombies deserve it because the Remy Tremblay'sculpture are great and it's a pleasure to put some colors on this undeads.<br />
To tell the true, I'd already started to paint some of them before starting the base but I had to cancel the paintjob and do it again....because they were too nice.<br />
I know, it sounds strange but I must keep in mind that this Z are not the main characters of my diorama, so it's important to not overdue with contrast and saturation in order to fuse the zombies with the base and create a visual gap with the three survivors.<br />
So I'm using a limited palette of cold and desaturated colors. several type of grey, white, black, purple, blue. I also avoid the extreme higlight, trying to focus more on the shades.<br />
It works quite well to create a night atmosphere.<br />
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I've started to glue them on the base, It helps me to see if the lights are corrects and if the overall visual works. I have three other Zombies (for a total of 8 Zombies) to paint for the base but I'm seriously thinking it's not enough to create a good "horde" effect. </div>
Maybe, I would plain to add other two or three to the total to fill the spaces on the base.<br />
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<br />Carkelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03041033786524674742noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012977181139885895.post-30808664683677233772016-12-05T13:30:00.000+01:002016-12-05T13:30:31.532+01:00[GGS CONTEST 2] Painting the urban baseLet's continue with the Zombie diorama for the <a href="http://gangeekstyle.com/2016/10/ggs-painting-2-2/" target="_blank">GGS contest 2</a>.<br />For the base painting, I'm using the washes techniques diluting my colors as most as possible to reduce the opacity and let the Black& White priming works alone.<br />
I start with the right side of the wall, painting the bricks in brown orange. Once finished, I increase the shades (in the up right part of the wall) with washes of transparent black (Warcolours) and then add some lights with drybrush of warm grey on the illuminated part of the wall.<br />
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For the left part of the wall, I've worked mainly with succession of washes of Ocre and warm grey.</div>
I've also painted the central pipe with metalics.<br />
The ground has been painted with blue grey and then with glazes of warm grey for the lights and black for the shades. I used a very large brush for this job, of course with an airbrush the job would be easier, nicer and quicker but I had to adapt me.<br />
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I've finished the base painting with the door painted with washes of green and Transparent black. I've added some extreme light on the glasses and painted the zombie's arm in monochrome scheme.<br />Then I've added the details to make eveything more credible. So a lot miniature printables applied with PVA glue. As everything was still too clean, I've designed some graffitis. I've use some google images for the inspiration, nothing too fanzy anyway, the goal was to make the aspect of the wall dirtier not painting super defined design.</div>
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Once applied all the details on the wall, I've worked again on the shades and applied large washes of transparent black in coherence with the overall lightning of the scene.<br />Finally the final touches: some mini mewspaper and flyier on the ground, painting of the garbages, some dark sepia washes (secret weapon) around the garbage to simulate some dirtiness and finally a little bit of artifical water from the pipe to the gutter. And it's done!</div>
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I'm very satisfied of the result. Now I have a lot of jobpainting to do with the zombies to finalize the scene. </div>
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<br />Carkelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03041033786524674742noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012977181139885895.post-36029290045014444802016-12-02T12:06:00.001+01:002016-12-02T12:06:09.775+01:00[Zombicide] Peindre une horde de zombie pour les nuls. <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: small;">This article is the french version of the <a href="http://carkelmini.blogspot.it/2016/03/zombicide-painting-horde-of-undead-for.html" target="_blank">following one.</a> </span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><strong><u><span style="font-size: medium;">Preface:</span></u></strong></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Je viens d'acheter mes deux sets Zombicide Walking dead pleine de morts vivants. Superbes sculptures pour du pastique mais pour le moment elles sont grises...simplement grises. Comme je voulais un minimum d'immersion, j'ai cherché quelques tutos sur Youtubepour les peindre facilement et surtout rapidement.</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">J'ai trouvé plein de videos différentes mais la technique reste fondamentalement toujours la meme. Celle de </span><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Xxm7Y0IJ10U" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #3778cd;">Sorastro's Zombie PaintingGuide</span></span></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">:</span></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4mEnESXfzzo/VvPBV3ouJwI/AAAAAAAAAHQ/N9g6IkHp_DISlX_Eg9jiRzTrFyDkI-gEA/s1600/sorastro%2Bzombies.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="101" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4mEnESXfzzo/VvPBV3ouJwI/AAAAAAAAAHQ/N9g6IkHp_DISlX_Eg9jiRzTrFyDkI-gEA/s400/sorastro%2Bzombies.png" width="400" /></span></a><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"> <span style="font-family: "calibri";"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span><br /></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 107%;">Excellent méthode, rapide avec un résultat final vraiment convaincant.<br />Il y a malheureusement deux problèmes:</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 107%;">1/ Ca nécessite un paquet de matériel: Necronic flesh en bombe, Army painter quickshade, white spirit, vernis matte , Tamya red-X27 ou du Citadel “Blood for the gods”, des bases transparentes (meme si c'est optionnel, rien que pour peindre les bases, d'autres materiaux sont necessaires), tout ça sans parler de la peinture.<br />Bien sur si vous etes dans le hobby du wargames, tout ça est familier. Mais si vous etes simplement un amateur de jeu de plateau qui veut peindre sa boite de Zombicide, vous n'avez probablement rien de tout cela chez vous et aucune idée d'où le trouver...surtout si comme moi vous vivez loin de tout magasins spécialisés.</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> <br /></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 107%;">2/ Ok, des zombies peints c'est joli surtout si c'est peint par un bon peintre mais dans les faits, toutes ces figs colorées créent une grande confusion sur la table de jeu. Ca peut paraitre paradoxale mais croyez en mon experience, lorsque vous avez une soixantaine de figs sur le plateau, il est facile de perdre votre survivant au milieu de tout les ennemis. Sans parler de distinguer les differents type de Zombies (classic, toxic, berserker..). Bref c'est joli mais pas très pratique en terme de jeu.</span></span></span></div>
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span></span></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman";"></span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 107%;">Cela dit, il est possible de régler ces deux problèmes grace au tuto de Sam Lenz (aka Samson) sur <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=i5kmqlLL0w0" target="_blank"><span style="color: #3778cd;">Tabletop Minions channel</span></a></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 107%;">La technique de Sam consiste en une peinture presque monochrome et sans utiliser trop de matos spécialisés.Sam Lenz en utilise quelques un (comme l'aero, des lavis ou des encres) mais je vous donnerai des alternatives pour obtenir un résultat similaire..</span></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 107%;">Pour ce tutorial, je vous indiquerait si les differents passages sont:</span></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 107%;">_ [Obligatoire] pas d'alternative.<br />_ [Conseillé] vous pouvez faire sans ou de façon differentes, ça sera juste plus long et moins convaincant.<br />_ [Optionnel] Juste pour rendre le résultat final plus sympa.</span></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 107%;">Je suppose que si vous lisez ce guide, vous n'avez pas forcement l'intention de vous lancer dans le hobby de la peinture sur figurine et que vous esperez simplement peindre votre boite sans investir trop de temps, d'argent et avec du matos facilement trouvable dans n'importe quelle grande surface.</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "arial";"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium; line-height: 107%;"><strong><u></u></strong></span></span></span><strong><u><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: medium;">De quoi avez vous besoin?</span></u></strong></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><u>Pinceaux [obligatoire]:</u> des petits, tailles 1 ou 2. Achetez en poils synthétiques pour économiser. Essayer simplement de choisir un pinceau avec une bonne pointe.<br />Un pinceau plus gros à poil droit. Plus gros ça veut dire gros pour une fig de 3 cm, pas pour peindre votre maison.<br /> </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><u>Des peintures acryliques [obligatoire]:</u>Il s'agit de peinture diluable à l'eau.Elle sont vendues en pots ou en tubes. Les premières sont plus facile à utiliser parcqu'elles sont dejà diluées, tandis que les tubes ont un meilleur rapport qualité prix (en proportion) mais nécessite une dilution manuelle.<br />Pour les couleurs, je conseille pour les zombies des couleurs désaturées. Evitez les couleurs trop flashy (à part du rouge pour le sang)<br />Dans le doute ou si vous voulez limiter la dépense, prenez simplement ces 5 couleurs:<br />_ noir<br />_ blanc<br />_ rouge<br />_ bleu<br />_ jaune</span></span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 107%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 107%;"><br /><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Pourquoi ? Parcque ceux sont les couleurs primaires avec lequelles vous pouvez créer une palette entière. Si vous avez 13 minutes, regardez ce </span><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=UGUuLptmsT8&list=PLeIfZcg2riJ9wQdRkq9UBEuLcbLUDUp0S" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #3778cd;">tutorial</span></span></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> et ensuite le suivant pour comprendre le concept de </span><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=e1p_2e8rYfQ&list=PLeIfZcg2riJ9wQdRkq9UBEuLcbLUDUp0S" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #3778cd;">desaturation</span></span></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">.</span></span></span></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><u><br /></u></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><u>Bombe d'acrylique [conseillé</u>]:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Noir et blanc. Ne faites pas trop attention à la marque, verifier simplement qu'elles fonctionnent sur le plastique.<br />Si vraiment vous voulez économiser, vous pouvez prendre juste le noir sans la bombe de blanc. Vous pouvez aussi vous passer de bombe mais le travail sera vraiment plus long et moins propre. </span><span style="font-family: "arial";"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JJ08m0ASS0w/VvQKwMa8HyI/AAAAAAAAAIs/IMdcAY0zThsKE-b7X91-S3fZvC0NRLhEA/s1600/blue%2Btack.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="144" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JJ08m0ASS0w/VvQKwMa8HyI/AAAAAAAAAIs/IMdcAY0zThsKE-b7X91-S3fZvC0NRLhEA/s200/blue%2Btack.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><u>Blue tack (patafix) [conseillé]: </u></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">pour fixer vos figs durant le travail de peinture à la bombe.</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><u><br />Bombe de vernis matte [conseillé]:</u></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Le vernis sert à protéger votre peinture ainsi qu'à la rendre matte, ce qui peut se reveler important si les peintures que vous avez achetées ont un rendu brillant ou satiné. <br />Ce n'est pas forcement necessaire si votre peinture est dejà matte, de meme pour la protection parcque les figs Zombicide sont en plastique et subissent difficilement des chocs capables d'abimer la peinture (mais cela dépend beaucoup de la façon dont les joueurs traitent les figs).</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><u><br />Colle blanche [optionnel]:</u>Un simple tube de colle blanche pour le bois ou le papier. Une de ses caractéristique est qu'elle est liquide et facilement diluable avec de l'eau, l'autre est qu'elle devient transaprente une fois séche. Très pratique pour coller des détails à la base au cas où vous voudriez les décorer. </span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "arial";"><br /></span></u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><strong><u>Attaquons la peinture:</u></strong>...ou pas. Parcqu'avant de vous lancer dans la première étape, <strong>vous devez nettoyer vos figurines</strong>. Non , je ne suis pas un de ces maniaque du nettoyage, c'est simplement que, meme si ça ne se voit pas, vos zombies sont recouverts de produits industriels pour faciliter le procedé de démoulage et il se trouve que ces produits rendent l'application de la peinture particulierement problématique. Bonne nouvelle: c'est facile de s'en débarasser.<br />Remplissez un bassine d'eau chaude (non bouillante, attention à ne pas faire fondre vos figs en plastique !) et de liquide vaisselle. Frottez bien avec une vieille brosse à dent, rincez, faites secher et vous etes finalement pret pour la phase de peinture.</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /><strong><span style="font-size: medium;"><u>Etape 1 [Obligatoire]: Comment illuminer vos morts vivants</u>.</span></strong><br />Cette étpae est fondamentale parcque'elle est permet de créer l'atmosphère générale en créant les ombres et les lumières sur vos zombies. Si ce travail est bien fait, votre peinture sera dejà une réussite à 90%.<br />Fixer vos figs sur un carton avec votre patafix. Autant de zombies que vous pouvez, pensez juste à laisser assez d'espace entre eux pour faciliter le procéder de peinture à la bombe.<br />Placez vous dand un lieu aéré, les bombes de peinture contiennent des solvants qui ne vaut mieux éviter de respirer.<br />Ensuite, commencez à agiter votre bombe de couleur noire. Agitez fort, agitez encore et continuez ensuite à agiter juste pour etre sure.<br /><br />Controlez ce <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=q3PGDOYm5Dc&list=PLeIfZcg2riJ9wQdRkq9UBEuLcbLUDUp0S" target="_blank"><span style="color: #3778cd;">tutorial</span></a> pour comprendre comment appliquer votre sous couche.<br /> <br />Comme vous pouvez voir, bien agiter la bombe est important ainsi qu'appliquer plusieurs couches légéres plutot qu'une grosse couche pour eviter d'obstruer les détails. Continuez à passer des couches jusqu'à ce que vos zombies soient completement sous couchés en noir.<br /> Laissez sécher. Vous pouvez accelérer le procédé en utilisant un séche cheveux.<br /><br />Une fois secs, prenez votre bombe de blanc et suivez le meme procédé mais cette fois passez uniquement une légére couche en pointant votre bombe du haut de votre figurine. Donc en appliquant le blanc de haut en bas. Comme si votre peinture était une source de lumière placée au dessus de vos figurines.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">fig sous couchée en noir puis en blanc</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Normalement vos zombies devraient ressembler à l'image de droite. Vous noterez que la sous couche noire est toujours visible dans les parties basses et dans les creux tandis que le blanc s'est déposé uniquement sur les parties hautes de la miniature et sur les reliefs.<br /><br />Maintenant vous devez accentuer encore la lumière au niveau du visage pour rendre les zombies encore plus terrifiants. Ca rendera les figs plus convaincantes sur la table de jeu et participera à l'ambiance horrifique de Zombicide.<br />Pour cela j'utilise la technique de Drysbrush (brossage à sec). Tout est parfaitement expliqué sur cette video tutorial de</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Tj9XNbwfwHo&list=PLeIfZcg2riJ9wQdRkq9UBEuLcbLUDUp0S" target="_blank"><span style="color: #3778cd;">Doctor Faust's painting clinic.</span></a></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zoJjO8myYvA/VvT4fPa52LI/AAAAAAAAAJg/vv52Tng7hXMxa7haHf0jrMWI4hUqlwlQw/s1600/zombie%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #3778cd;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zoJjO8myYvA/VvT4fPa52LI/AAAAAAAAAJg/vv52Tng7hXMxa7haHf0jrMWI4hUqlwlQw/s400/zombie%2B2.jpg" width="223" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">resultat après brossage à sec.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Vous aurez remarqué que sur la video, le peintre utilise une palette. C'est à dire un support sur lequel on depose les couleurs. Vous pouvez utiliser ce que vous voulez tant qu'il s'agit de materiel non absorbant: Assiette en plastique, boite de CD, un compact disc (pas de votre album préféré bien sur).<br />Placez donc de la peinture blanche sur votre palette. il est possible d'ajouter une touche d'une autre couleur si vous désirez créer un rendu particulier sur vos figs. Dans mon cas j'ai ajouté une goute de bleu ciel pour créer un effet de lumière nocture (froide). Mais c'est totalement optionnel.<br /> </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Prenez votre gros pinceau à poil plat et commencez votre brossage à sec comme expliqué dans la video precedente.<br />Vous pouvez abonder lors de cette étape mais cependant, <strong>brossez uniquement au niveau de la tete et des épaules. </strong>Le résultat final devrait etre similaire à l'image à gauche.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Sur la photo du dessous, vous pouvez voir le résultat à distance de jeu sur un groupe de zombies.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uoowU-pNOmg/VvQL4ccR9rI/AAAAAAAAAI4/1XtNjKXfrEsXQ1rY_Ato8Eh42KxftkYsQ/s1600/walk%2Bof%2Bthe%2Bdead%2B%25231%2B-%2Bwip%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="224" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uoowU-pNOmg/VvQL4ccR9rI/AAAAAAAAAI4/1XtNjKXfrEsXQ1rY_Ato8Eh42KxftkYsQ/s400/walk%2Bof%2Bthe%2Bdead%2B%25231%2B-%2Bwip%2B1.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><strong>Si vous n'avez pas acheté de bombes acrylique, </strong>vous pouvez arriver à un résultat équivalent, ça sera juste plus long et un peu moins propre. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">_ Passer une couche de noir au pinceau. Attention de ne pas trop abonder et de bien etendre votre peinture pour eviter de créer des résidus qui boucheraient les détails.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">_ Une fois sec, procedez avec le brossage à sec sur toute la figurine en brossant de haut an bas avec du gris.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">_ Ensuite faites un second brossage à sec, cette fois avec du blanc et uniquement au niveau des épaules et du visage.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">En théorie vous avez dejà une horde de zombie monochrome en noir et blanc. Vous pouvez vous contenter de se résultat, certain joueurs ont choisi de peindre leur boite comme cela en variant simplement les couleurs selon le type de zombies. Pratique pour le jeu et certainement plus esthetique que le plastique gris d'origine.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tPRY3y0zLms/VvUGSnztOJI/AAAAAAAAAJw/KsVjQIUGKsoID8YsXLO7lMEXDprTqL-6A/s1600/zombies%2Bmonochrome.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="164" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tPRY3y0zLms/VvUGSnztOJI/AAAAAAAAAJw/KsVjQIUGKsoID8YsXLO7lMEXDprTqL-6A/s400/zombies%2Bmonochrome.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zw8rzXo3ykk/VvUHlTdYM0I/AAAAAAAAAJ8/t-czHnk-yUYiE4wbowQ4Azage34dh0OfQ/s1600/Toxics.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="167" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zw8rzXo3ykk/VvUHlTdYM0I/AAAAAAAAAJ8/t-czHnk-yUYiE4wbowQ4Azage34dh0OfQ/s400/Toxics.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br />A partir de là, le reste du tuto est "conseillé" mais non obligatoire et explique comment ajouter des couleurs à vos zombies.<br /><br /><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><strong><span style="font-size: medium;"><u>Etape 2 [Conseillé]: Comment ajouter de la couleur:</u></span></strong></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Pour cette étape vous avez besoin de:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">_ une palette</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">_ un verre d'eau</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">_ Du papier absorbant. (sopalin)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Il est important à ce stade de garder en tete ce que vous voulez obtenir et ce que vous devez éviter..</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">_ Vous devez conserver votre travail précedent sur les lumières.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">_ Vous devez éviter de couvrir vos figs avec des applats opaques de peinture.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">J'insiste parcque vous risquez facilement durant cette étape de ruiner completement le boulot précedent si vous ne suivez pas attentivement mes conseils sur la façon d'appliquer la peinture.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><strong>Vous devez peindre en transparence</strong>. C'est la raison pour laquelle nous utilisons de l'acrylique parcque c'est une peinture facilement diluable à l'eau.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Voici la méthode: déposer la couleur de votre choix sur votre palette, ajoutez une goutte d'eau et mélangez. Continuez à ajouter de l'eau jusqu'à ce que la peinture prenne une consistence similaire à du lait. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Je ne peux pas etre plus précis sur les dosage parcque tout dépend de la peinture que vous achetez et de sa consistence et de son opacité d'origine.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Quand votre mélange semble assez dilué, testez le sur un bout de papier.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">L'image ci dessous illustre parfaitement ce que vous devez obtenir:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><em>"Lavis" c'est lorsque vous appliquez une fine couche de peinture diluée au dessus d' autres couleurs dejà presentes. Le voile fin de couleur permet à la couleur en dessous de rester malgrès tout visible.</em></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Yn1syYUc_Gw/VvU5HuyUa0I/AAAAAAAAAKM/EWFhnVn37_QjmRSIQfi2XGO_JSfkIYWSw/s1600/acrylic-paint-application-techniques-5-638.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Yn1syYUc_Gw/VvU5HuyUa0I/AAAAAAAAAKM/EWFhnVn37_QjmRSIQfi2XGO_JSfkIYWSw/s400/acrylic-paint-application-techniques-5-638.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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Si votre mélange est assez dilué pour etre transparent, alors il est pret pour etre appliqué sur votre zombie. </div>
Un dernier truc avant de poser votre pinceau sur la figurine: Avec ce genre de consistence, votre pinceau est certainement imbibé de liquide et vous risquez d'etre incapable de le controller lors de l'applat. En gros ça va dégouliner partout!.<br />Donc, mieux vaut décharger un peu de liquide de votre pinceau en l'appliquant sur du papier absorbant avant l'applat. Vous aurez l'impression qu'il ne reste plus rien sur les poils du pinceau mais en réalité les pigments seront encore presents et suffisant pour mettre de la couleur sur votre figurine.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XAlv-Z40Z9U/VvU9DQ2o-AI/AAAAAAAAAKY/DXnBw76p-DsoxJ3W91ZNfh0X-D88FCFsg/s1600/zombie%2B4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XAlv-Z40Z9U/VvU9DQ2o-AI/AAAAAAAAAKY/DXnBw76p-DsoxJ3W91ZNfh0X-D88FCFsg/s400/zombie%2B4.jpg" width="222" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Couches transparentes appliquées sur la couche en noir et blanc</td></tr>
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Les fines couches appliquées sur la fig seront naturellement plus sombres sur les zones sous couchées en noir et plus claires sur les zones sous couché en blanc.<br />
C'est magique. C'est simplement l'effet de la transparence sur votre travail préliminaire de lumière. </div>
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Si le résultat est trop transparent et que les couleurs ne sortent pas assez à votre gouts, il suffit simplement d'attendre que la première couche séche et refaire un second passage. Faites en autant que vous voulez mais n'oubliez pas que vous devez conserver l'effet d'ombre et de lumière.<br />
L'image à droite illustre le genre de résultat que vous devez obtenir.</div>
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Cette étape est clairement la plus longue parcque vous devrez appliquer differentes couleurs sur une tonne de zombies en prenant soin d'etre un minium precis dans votre travail.</div>
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<strong>Quelques astuces pour accélerer le travail:</strong> </div>
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_ Travaillez façon "chaine de montage". Ne peignez pas completement chaque fig les unes après les autres. Mieux vaut travailler par ligne de couleur. Par exemple: commencez par peindre uniquement la peau des zombies. Quand vous aurez fini la peau du dernier zombies, le premier sera dejà secs et vous pourrez recommencer le meme procedé avec cette fois une autre couleur. </div>
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_ Ne perdez pas trop de temps sur les détails, etre précis est correct mais ne devenez pas maniaque. Avec votre travail precedent sur le noir et blanc vous pouvez meme vous permettre de laisser quelques parties sans couleurs, personne ne s'en apercevra.<br />
_ Limitez votre palette de couleurs. Sur l'image en dessous, vous pouvez voir que mes zombies ont été peints avec moins de 7 couleurs differentes (ce qui est dejà beaucoup). En utilisant la meme couleur sur des parties differentes à chaque zombies (par exemple le bleu du pantalon de l'un vient ensuite appliqué à la chemise du suivant), vous obtiendrez dejà un bel effet de variété. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">groupe de zombie après application des couleurs</td></tr>
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_Les erreurs arrivent. Pas de panique si vous débordez ou vous trompez de couleur. Si votre peinture est bien diluée, vous pouvez la retirer pendant qu'elle est encore humide simplement avec un peu de papier absorbant, un pinceau propre ou meme votre petit doigt.</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><u><br /></u></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><u><br /><strong>Etape 3 [conseillé]: un peu de saleté</strong></u>.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PRedOZXdLF4/VvVKtNCELEI/AAAAAAAAAK8/NdTiaiyJUQwtRUqEypM7Mjh3GHLI09skg/s1600/zombie%2B5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PRedOZXdLF4/VvVKtNCELEI/AAAAAAAAAK8/NdTiaiyJUQwtRUqEypM7Mjh3GHLI09skg/s320/zombie%2B5.jpg" width="179" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ajout de jus de marron</td></tr>
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C'est une étape facile et c'est aussi la plus amusante, il est arrivé le moment d'ajouter une touche de crédibilité à nos zombies avec quelques effets speciaux.<br />
Preparez un peu de marron sur votre palette. Si vous n'avez pas de marron, je vous rappelle que vous pouvez en créer en mélangeant du rouge et du vert. Une goutte de noir ou de blanc selon les gouts pour désaturer un peu les couleurs.<br />
La consistence doit etre la meme que l'étape precedente, donc une couleur transparente. Cette fois vous pouvez y aller joyeusement sans meme décharger votre pinceaux en liquide. Appliquez ce jus sur les parties du zombies pour simuler differents effets: sur le pantalon genre de la boue, des petits points sur le maillot pour faire des tache de gras, sous les aisselles pour de la sueur, sur la peau pour simuler de la moisissure. Amusez vous.<br />
A droite une illustration de ce que vous pouvez faire.</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><u><br /><br /><br /><strong>Etape 4 [optionnel]: Peindre la base</strong></u>.</span></div>
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Tout les joueurs ne peignent pas leur base. Beaucoup préfèrent la peindre en une couleur pour identifier facilement les differents type de zombies. Personnelement je trouve dommage de gacher le travail de peinture avec une horrible base rouge/jaune/verte.</div>
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En réalité, il ne faut pas beaucoup plus de temps pour faire une jolie base que les peindre tous en une couleur et esthetiquement ça ajoute vraiment quelques chose à votre figurine.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jxJvpgoCWlU/VvVQvceKfkI/AAAAAAAAALI/_EQQseX_MLoCAJ7hitovypsIh7V4DQg5w/s1600/base%2Bwith%2Bwet%2Bblending.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jxJvpgoCWlU/VvVQvceKfkI/AAAAAAAAALI/_EQQseX_MLoCAJ7hitovypsIh7V4DQg5w/s320/base%2Bwith%2Bwet%2Bblending.PNG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">wet blending result once dried</td></tr>
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Essayons avec le fondu dans le frais (wet blending):<br />
Preparez du gris, du noir et une touche de marron sur votre palette. La peinture doit etre bien humide mais pas trop diluée.<br />
Commencez par appliquez du gris sur toute la base avec un pinceau humide, pendant que la peinture est encore fraiche, ajoutez une touche de noir directement sur la base au niveau de l'ombre du zombie, vous verrez que les couleurs se fonderont ensemble creant un gris plus sombre sur la zone de l'application. Faites de meme avec quelques touches de marron de ci de là. Ne vous inquietez pas si le résultat vous semble sale au première abord. Lorsque la peinture comencera à sécher, les couleurs se fonderont entre elles et creeront naturellement un effet de dégradé. Ce n'est pas très gracieux vu de près mais l'effet à distance de jeu est très crédible. Comme vous pouvez voir sur la photo, j'ai également ajouté quelques papier journaux pour habiller la base.<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JGx6bK9Q6ic/VvVSnVizU1I/AAAAAAAAALU/HzFtbszqtLwywV56xUFXVDjSXXwABTTLg/s1600/newspaper%2Bzombicide.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="124" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JGx6bK9Q6ic/VvVSnVizU1I/AAAAAAAAALU/HzFtbszqtLwywV56xUFXVDjSXXwABTTLg/s400/newspaper%2Bzombicide.PNG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Vous pouvez les telecharger sur ce <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/96vzmp97zdcnb00/Newspapers%20Zombicide.pdf?dl=0" target="_blank"><span style="color: #3778cd;">link</span></a>. Il suffit de les imprimer, les découper. Pour les appliquer à votre base, faites un mélange de colle blanche et d'eau, trempez le papier dedans et placez le sur la base. Ne vous inquietez pas si le mélange laisse une trace blanche, la colle deviendra transparente une fois séche.<br />
Touche finale pour la base: peignez le bord en noir pour rendre le tout plus propre.<br />
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<u><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><strong>Etape 5 [Conseillé]: Du Sang !!</strong></span></u></div>
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Juste une intro avant de parler des effets gore. Normalement, il<strong> est conseillé de faire cette étape après avoir vernis votre figurine</strong>. Parcque le vernis matte reduira l'effet de brillance de votre sang et tendra à unifié les couleurs reduisant ainsi l'impact visuel de l'effet gore.<br />
Comme je ne suis pas fan de ce genre d'effet, je préfère qu'ils ne soient pas trop voyant. Du coup, je procède à cette étape avant le vernissage. <br />
C'est vous qui voyez.<br />
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Comment peindre le sang? Rouge bien sur... mais pas exactement. <br />
Pour un peu de crédibilité, souvenez vous que le sang frais est rouge mais qu'une fois à l'air il tend à se noircir, le sang sec sera donc plus marron rouge.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x903nxuZ5_w/VvVaZevwSFI/AAAAAAAAALk/wHKnMtGuEAQcXmKaSDw8lS02OaQ2Tt7iQ/s1600/zombie%2B7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x903nxuZ5_w/VvVaZevwSFI/AAAAAAAAALk/wHKnMtGuEAQcXmKaSDw8lS02OaQ2Tt7iQ/s400/zombie%2B7.jpg" width="223" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Apres ajout des effets gore.</td></tr>
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Donc tout dépend si vous voulez peindre le sang de votre zombie tout frais, plutot vieux ou peut etre le sang de sa victime.<br />
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Preparez le mélange sur votre palette selon votre gout, la consistence de la peinture doit etre plus dense que precedement. Le sang doit etre opaque sur la figurine. <br />Juste un petit conseil esthétique: gardez en tete que le zombie est peint à base de peinture très diluée et donc le résultat final est particulierement désaturé avec des teintes plutot ternes. Si vous optez pour du sang très rouge, l'impact visuel sera très fort à cause du contraste avec le reste de la figurine. C'est d'autant plus vrai si vous appliquez le sang après le vernissage.<br />Encore une fois, à vous de decider. Dans mon cas, j'ai opté pour un sang plutot sombre par cohérence avec le reste de la peinture.<br />
Quelques trucs et astuce pour l'application de la couleur:<br />
_ "Moins c'est plus", n'exagerez pas trop sur la quantité d'emoglobine ou du moins par sur tout les zombies sinon vous risquez de produire une énorme masse de zombies rouges qui ruinera tout le travail visuel sur les lumières. Vous pouvez creer de la variété en laissant des figurines sans effet gore et d'autre particulierement splatter.<br />
_ Variez les applications, des traces, des points, des dégoulinements pour simuler differents effets comme des blessures, des éclaboussures ou du vomi. Vous pouvez faire des effets d'éclaboussure très sympa avec une vielle brosse à dent. Impregnez la de peinture,et grattez les poils en direction de la figs. La peinture se projettera naturelement. vous pouvez voir la technique en video sur le tuto de Sam Lenz sur Youtube (le link au debut de cet article)<br />_ Pensez à mettre aussi un peu de sang sur votre base pour plus de crédibilité.<br />_ Vous pouvez utilisez differents mélange de peinture plus ou moins rouge pour varier les types de sang. Par exemple du sang plus rouge sur les mains et la bouche pour simuler le sang frais de la victime du zombies, du sang plus noir sur les vetements ou les blessures pour simuler du sang sec.<br />
Normalement vos zombies sont finis.Si vous ne l'avez pas encore fait, vous pouvez proceder au vernissage pour proteger vos miniatures.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2gwxIqZCTLg/VwIsKxwRm2I/AAAAAAAAAQw/pw3yHp4lfoMm0PVsMvd4-rYbi37doIcFwCPcB/s1600/Walk%2Bof%2Bthe%2Bdead%2B%2523%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2gwxIqZCTLg/VwIsKxwRm2I/AAAAAAAAAQw/pw3yHp4lfoMm0PVsMvd4-rYbi37doIcFwCPcB/s640/Walk%2Bof%2Bthe%2Bdead%2B%2523%2B2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Et une horde de zombies prete pour le jeu !</td></tr>
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<br />J'espère que vous vous amuserez à peindre vos zombies et que l'envie vous viendra de peindre aussi vos survivants ou d'autre boite de jeu.<br /></div>
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Remerciements à :<br />
_ <a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/tabletopminions" target="_blank"><span style="color: #3778cd;">Table Minions</span></a> et Sam Lenz pour leur tutorial<br />
_ <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbJCFAtGMXQZm6WfSMMLzvw" target="_blank"><span style="color: #3778cd;">Doctor Faust's painting clinic</span></a>.<br />
_ <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCV9FQJzreW8stzsij9WnLOA" target="_blank"><span style="color: #3778cd;">The beast of war</span></a> et Romain pour leur tuto sur la théorie des couleurs.</div>
</span><br />Carkelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03041033786524674742noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012977181139885895.post-35998225068807764212016-11-23T17:03:00.000+01:002016-11-23T17:03:11.582+01:00[GGS CONTEST 2] Building the urban base<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Here some update of the diorama.<br />As you can see I've finished the base building.<br />I've spend a lot of time trying different minis position on the base. Actually I wanted to put more zombies but I was not happy with the results because the horde created a wall between the survivor and the viewer making the diorama difficult to read.<br />So at the end, I've choosen to reduce the number of undead and open the visual on the three heroes also because they are the main subject of the contest, it's important to create a good focus on them.<br /></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eyqjFD93uQ0/WClzPagnbVI/AAAAAAAAAuE/JTNYOTHD6yABJ-fnO-CzsEcoSfeBcYIlwCLcB/s1600/WIP%2BBASE%2B5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eyqjFD93uQ0/WClzPagnbVI/AAAAAAAAAuE/JTNYOTHD6yABJ-fnO-CzsEcoSfeBcYIlwCLcB/s640/WIP%2BBASE%2B5.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Once decided the position, I took away the survivors, fix the zombies and prime the entire diorama in black. Then using white spray I've placed the light at the center of the diorama to create an artificial lightning from above. I'm very satisfied with the result. It's exactly the effect I wanted:<br />A strong light on the survivor in contrast with the rest of the diorama immersed in the night darkness.</div>
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<br /><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vrXieQDu6SE/WCxlT9mpazI/AAAAAAAAAuU/KZ4JyuPrpy4j8DnITCi5rAqai44AtTtfQCLcB/s1600/WIP%2BBASE%2B6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vrXieQDu6SE/WCxlT9mpazI/AAAAAAAAAuU/KZ4JyuPrpy4j8DnITCi5rAqai44AtTtfQCLcB/s640/WIP%2BBASE%2B6.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Ok, now I suppose I need to put some colors on it. See you soon.</div>
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<br />Carkelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03041033786524674742noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012977181139885895.post-47969754952321901292016-11-11T14:32:00.001+01:002016-11-11T14:32:13.054+01:00[GGS CONTEST 2] buidling urban base 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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It's time for the next GanGeekStyle contest. This time the theme is very fun:<br />The Good, the Brute and the Nut. <br />As usual, the miniature's scale are limited to 25 and 32 mn but the environment and the presentation are free.<br />Because I had a lot of fun painting Hasselfree miniature for Zombicide during this last months, I've decided to make a diorama with the same object: survivors versus zombies.</div>
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So I've selected 3 minis from the Hasselfree catalogue. </div>
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<br /><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UCXdgiyDkM0/WCLWdV42w9I/AAAAAAAAAt0/vrTVFKf0w9ggqevUqsUirM0LyUGfCKnXwCLcB/s1600/reception%2Bmini.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UCXdgiyDkM0/WCLWdV42w9I/AAAAAAAAAt0/vrTVFKf0w9ggqevUqsUirM0LyUGfCKnXwCLcB/s640/reception%2Bmini.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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But before starting with the painting of the three heroes, I must build and paint my base which needs to be accurated and elaborated if I want my diorama works.</div>
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Urban environment of course. My idea is to create an alley by night with illumination on the heroes in contrast with an horde of zombie in the darkness.<br />Here some pics of the WIP. as usual I've used a lot of coating to create the texture. It seems quite simple and empty right now but adding the zombie minis (from Zombicide) and some garbage on the streets, the whole stage should be credible. <br /></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-beHy4XhszVc/WBn5ZX2ZQyI/AAAAAAAAAtU/Zw7Bq2NG0EoWnc-plMNywbNdmcp5h-c2ACLcB/s1600/WIP%2BBASE%2B3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="224" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-beHy4XhszVc/WBn5ZX2ZQyI/AAAAAAAAAtU/Zw7Bq2NG0EoWnc-plMNywbNdmcp5h-c2ACLcB/s400/WIP%2BBASE%2B3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vJYIHaz_5Fg/WBn5ZQYjzvI/AAAAAAAAAtQ/RTWv_CY-gVM_N4GOoEcB5Oy_w1W3uO0AgCLcB/s1600/WIP%2BBASE%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="224" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vJYIHaz_5Fg/WBn5ZQYjzvI/AAAAAAAAAtQ/RTWv_CY-gVM_N4GOoEcB5Oy_w1W3uO0AgCLcB/s400/WIP%2BBASE%2B2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br />Carkelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03041033786524674742noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012977181139885895.post-67807406734908817782016-09-23T09:02:00.000+02:002016-09-23T09:02:16.027+02:00[Zombicide] Survivors proxyHere my complete team of survivors for Zombicide. All the minis comes from Hasslefree and has been very fun to paint. <br />
I can't wait to receive other ones for Hasslefree to add new survivors proxy to my box games.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gWwKvk6zpjk/V-TTCyJH6AI/AAAAAAAAAsE/V5K2BouOy68uL_MdHgC7vILDV9ZiHw5DACLcB/s1600/survivor%2Bproxy%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gWwKvk6zpjk/V-TTCyJH6AI/AAAAAAAAAsE/V5K2BouOy68uL_MdHgC7vILDV9ZiHw5DACLcB/s640/survivor%2Bproxy%2B1.jpg" width="632" /></a></div>
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<br />Carkelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03041033786524674742noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012977181139885895.post-13867098618705170212016-09-14T14:11:00.002+02:002016-09-14T14:14:08.028+02:00[Reaper Pathfinder] GGS painting contest- project finished<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I'm quite busy in this period, unfortunatly not for painting but for professional reason.</div>
But I've found the time to finish Valeros for the GGS painting contest. I'm quite happy with the final result, less about the quality of the picture. In fact it has been the most difficult part of the project because I have not good equipment to do picture. I've spent 3 days just to shoot my mini and find the better position as possible.<br />
I've tried different lightning sources, even the natural light. But at the end I've decided to take the pictures made with a light box I've improvised at the last moment.<br />
Hope you'll enjoy my work on Valeros.<br />
You can see larger pics on my gallery on <a href="http://www.coolminiornot.com/403691" target="_blank">coolmini</a>:<br />
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<br />Carkelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03041033786524674742noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012977181139885895.post-92223470863920091312016-08-22T13:11:00.001+02:002016-08-22T13:11:09.380+02:00[Reaper Pathfinder] GGS painting contest- Painting Valeros.<br />
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I was in holidays at home during the last weeks. I've catched the moment to work on Valeros for the GGS Contest. I have to say that the paintjob has been exhausting. The mini is full of details with several stripes of clothing and all sort of equipments.<br />
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But finally I've quite finished the overall painting. Now I'm going to switch on the last details, probably repaint the sword (i'm not happy at all with the NMM of the blade), work on the atmosphere and the general colors hue between the figure and the base.</div>
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<br />Carkelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03041033786524674742noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012977181139885895.post-81738276883497034752016-07-29T12:47:00.001+02:002016-07-29T12:47:19.171+02:00[Zombicide] Hasslefree Oakley - Ash vs Zombies <br />
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<em>Ash: Good. Bad. I'm the guy with the gun</em></div>
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I needed a little break from the painting contest so I've decided to continue with my zombicide survivors. This time I've worked on Oakley from Hasselfree miniature.<br />A figure clearly inspired by Ash Campbell from Evil Dead movies.<br />Great sculpture and very good casting as usual with Hasselfree. He was so easy and pleasant to paint that I've finished him in less of 4 hours. <br />As I want to use him for the character of Troy, I've choosen the axe for the right hand. I coudln't resist to put anyway the chainsaw on the base just to reinforce the badass attitude of the mini.<br />Usually I don't like to put gore effect on my miniatures but in this case, it was a question of coherence. It was also a way to link the color of the chainsaw with the rest of the mini.<br />Enjoy.</div>
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<br />Carkelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03041033786524674742noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012977181139885895.post-5825040064813864692016-07-15T15:19:00.000+02:002016-07-29T12:49:08.996+02:00[Reaper Pathfinder] GGS painting contest- Painting Valeros (flesh)<br />
I've started with the face because it will be the focus of the scene, I wanted to be sure to do the best as possible since the beginning of the process before painting anything else.<br />
Some consideration:<br />
_ The face is very expressive, it means that the sculpture is full of details and wrinkled. It means also that I had to think about how the colors change with the expression. Usually, when you're angry or under pression, your face is more reddish due the blood flow. So I've played a lot with glazes to create saturation and contrast not only between lights and shades but also between reddish area versus the rest of the face.<br />
My palette was full of colors, red, yellow, blue, violet trying to create different hue following the area. Warmer around the eyes, nose and cheek, cooler on the down part.<br />
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_ As described in my <a href="http://carkelmini.blogspot.it/2016/07/reaper-pathfinder-ggs-painting-contest_7.html" target="_blank">previous article</a> about the base building, I didn't choose the usual zenithal lightning for Valeros. The reason is that the background of the scene is a dungeon. There is no reason the lighting come from above in an closed environment, instead I've choosen a frontal lighting because we presume that the light source comes from the foes facing Valeros.<br />
Yes I know it seems complicated but actually with you watch the draft of the base and how are placed the shadows, the direction of the lights is clearer.</div>
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Coming back to the miniature painting, I had to follow the same process and adapt the lightning of the face to the general light source direction. That's why the face seems maybe a little bit brighter than it should because it's fully exposed to the frontal light source.</div>
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I have the feeling that this lightning choice will make me crazy with the armour paintjob....<br />
<br />Carkelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03041033786524674742noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012977181139885895.post-10273640903034284292016-07-12T10:54:00.001+02:002016-07-12T10:54:27.018+02:00[Reaper Pathfinder] GGS painting contest- base painting I've learned a lot about painting thanks to the articles and videos our comunity shares on Internet.<br />
There is a lot of talented artists but I like especially the guys from <a href="http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.it/" target="_blank">Massive Voodoo</a> for the way they live, see and explain the colors. <br />I've learned that sometimes It's good to do a mess with paints, don't be afraid to play with the colors, experiment and focus more on the atmosphere than on the details.<br />In the article below, Roman explains how he's painted his dungeon display using the base like a palette, playing directly with brush and colors on the wall and ground. I recommand to watch the video.<br />
<a href="http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.it/2011/06/creating-dungeon-display-base-part-2.html">http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.it/2011/06/creating-dungeon-display-base-part-2.html</a><br />I've used the same technique for my base and I have to say I had a lot of fun. Basically I've focused only the choice of colors and where to place them. The darker on the front and the lighter on top of the wall.<br />On the picture below, we can see the result of the first draft. I've rougly placed the colors and after 10 minutes of wet blending with my big brush, the global overview is quite finished. My palette was composed mainly with ocre, orange brown, warm grey, beige and black.<br />As you notice, I've also painted the first shadows. In front the foe's shades and on the wall Valeros' shade. <br /> <br />
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After this first draft, I work with a smaller brush and increase the contrast of the different elements. More black on the shades, more saturated colors on the wall and the wood, higlights on the edges. I have also added some washes (secret weapon) of black green, stones, sepia and dark amor.</div>
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I put the mini again on the base to check the general atmosphere and the placement of the shades. <br />I've noticed that the scene was a little bit empty. The shadows of the foes were not very defined and didn't give the idea of the their presence. So I've added some weapons, arrows and dards. Probably I will come back on this details later to make them more realistics.<br /></div>
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Enough of base painting for now. I will finish the details at the end of the project. I' going to start the miniature paintjob to be sure that Valeros matches well with the display. </div>
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<br />Carkelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03041033786524674742noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012977181139885895.post-38682179069445612922016-07-07T12:36:00.002+02:002016-07-07T12:36:54.800+02:00[Reaper Pathfinder] GGS painting contest- WIP on base 2<br />
Yesterday, I've proceed with the base for Valeros.<br />
First, I've added some elements to fill the space and make the environment more interesting.<br />
The small flocking between the slabs has been fixed with a mix of PVA glue and water. Actually, I haven't pigment to create the dust so I use this kind of flocking instead. <br />
In this phase I've also placed the mini to have a clear overview.<br />
As Valeros is tintled toward the right of viewer, I've placed a piece of wood on the opposite direction to create a triangle. It's a tip I've learned from the diorama makers, the triangle lead the viewer toward the focus point of the scene which is Valeros'face.<br />
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Now, my idea for the scene was to use the front of the base to place the shadows of the foes. Because I want to create the idea of the ambush but I cannot place other minis due to the rules of the contest.</div>
So I've made an experiment: as I always use pre-shading techniques for the priming of my bases, I though It could be a good idea to integrate directly this shadows during this step.<br />
I've created a mask representing the foes and place it in front of Valeros.<br />
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Then I proceed with the priming of the base following the pre shading techniques:</div>
_ first step, I spray the base in black without the miniature and without the mask to be sure that all the areas are fully primed. <br />
_ second step, I place the miniature and the mask and now use the white colorspray to place the lights. I spray the white only in one direction directly in front of the base. My intent is to place naturally the shadows thanks to the mask and the mini which should let the area behind in black. <br />
Here the result.<br />
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It doesn't work. Actually I have a zone of shades in the front of the base and also on the wall behind Valeros but I didn't succeed to create a clear definition of the shadows. I think it's due to the distance I spray the white, too far away from the mask to create the effect. I suppose It's the kind of job I should do at short distance with an airbrush.</div>
Ok, it was an experiment, not a big deal because anyway I'm happy with the general lightning of the scene. I will define the shadows with my brush during the painting process.<br />Ok, I think I've done with the building of the base. Now it's time to play with the colors.<br />
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<br />Carkelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03041033786524674742noreply@blogger.com0